Each of these non-standard cue balls changed the play of the game itself! For example:
#Valley pool table 1962 spwcs full#
the Aramith Red Dot Dynamo - a full ounce heavier than the object balls), or magnetic (e.g. the despised "grapefruit ball"), overweight (e.g. These non-standard cue balls were either oversized (e.g. bar boxes used special cue balls to facilitate a separate cue ball return, so that the cue ball didn't go into the object ball collection area, which would need coinage to release it. However, because the side pockets are in the middle of the rail instead of the corner of two intersecting rails, you can cut a ball into the side pockets at a greater approach angle than that.) The Valley (and Dynamo, and possibly other brands) of tables are the only known tables where the world standard proportionately-sized side pocket apertures VIOLATE this rule. With the corner pocket aperture facing 45 degrees into the "square" shape of that half of the table's playing surface, even if you send a ball down the rail into that corner pocket - the maximum angle of approach to that corner pocket - that approach angle is 45 degrees. (The maximum pocket approach angle on any corner pocket is no greater than 45 degrees to the pocket itself. You'll find that the side pocket apertures are significantly larger than the corner pockets, for a reason - this is to make up for the pocket approach angle on the side pockets, which can be greater than the corner pockets. Walk up to any 8-footer, 9-footer, English pocket billiards table, or even a snooker table(!) and measure both the side and corner pockets. And they're all WRONG, technically speaking from a pool table dimensions aspect! The Valley (and Dynamo) bar boxes are the only pool tables in existence (albeit they're a HUGE market share) where the side pockets are the EXACT same aperture size as the corner pockets. Although yes, it is a question of *who* prepares the table and how he/she cuts the rubber for the cushions (as well as what brand/model of rubber cushions used), the rubber cushions for the Valley are commodity items, and the pockets are standard sized for the Valley.Diamond does not manufacture a 6-footer that I'm aware of. Naturally, he/she would obviously prefer to get double the coin drop with the 6-footers (and double the drinking/eating customers in that playing area) than the single coin drop revenue from the lone 7-footer. Reason: for space utilization reasons, when a bar owner is presented with the option to either have a single 7-footer, or two 6-footers, revenue comes into play. In fact, I discovered that 7-footer Valleys here in my area are quite rare. in traveling pool leagues, bar tournaments, et al.) are 6-footers, not 7-footers. Most of the Valley bar boxes I've played on over the years (e.g.I ask, because the differences between a Diamond "small box" (and I called it "small box" versus "bar box" for reasons you'll see in a bit) and a Valley bar box are not trivial. No offense, but have you actually PLAYED on a Diamond "small box"? With the Ridgeback rails there is no more clunk. Tightening these takes a lot of the Valley clunk out of the rails. Most of the older tables will be found to have at least 1 or 2 bolts loose or some missing all together. One other thing to check is the 8 bolts (2 each) under the corner castings. I believe if Valley table owners when it was time to change cloth would put one of the faster clothes on, get a set of Ridgeback rails (angles are cut different), and have the pockets tightened to 4 ½” that players would be surprised how close to a Diamond it plays. There are probably hundreds of thousands of these tables in the US and other countries.
#Valley pool table 1962 spwcs pro#
Now I’m not saying a Valley can be made into a Diamond Smart table with pro cut pockets, but it can be made to play pretty damn close to one for as little as $200-$300. But the #1 reason I hear is that they have big pockets, bad rails, and slow cloth. I know a lot of players don’t like the Valley bar box for many reasons.
0 kommentar(er)
